Jaap & Anja van Duijvenbode

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Archive for the ‘Technical’ Category

First Solo Dive and Punda

Friday, March 25th, 2011

Today was my real first Solo Dive, which was really relaxing! Carrying an extra pony bottle, which allows me to ascend from 40 meters, I only planned my dive between 5 and 10 meters in order to test my Subal Housing including Lee 444 gelatine filters. This means I have put the color correction filter on my strobe.

By default an Ikelite DS-125 strobe has a color temperature of 4800 Kelvin, but with the Lee 444 filters it bumps it up to approx. 5500K, which means richer (Mustard) Blue tones in any open water picture. I have not been able to get a good shot today, but have some examples which proves the hypothesis.

Below you can find a shot of a damselfish!

We also visited Punda (Willemstad) in the afternoon for a good Stoba Karni!

Cheers,
Jaap

Solo Diving Course

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

Today I wrapped up my Solo Diving Certification! :-)

I know it is serious business diving solo, however the buddy-system is not a definite secure system as well. I have been trained TDI/SDI Solo Diver by Peter at Scuventures, who is an experienced instructor, and I was able to meet all the requirements by demonstrating my diving and emergency skills, and passing the written exam.

I will get into more detail later onwards, however diving solo means you’re carrying an extra tank or pony bottle to supply air at any given time. It’s like a walk in the park on you’re own with a buddy closer than you can imagine. It’s the best thing for any underwater photographer!

Cheers,
Jaap

Alex Mustard workshop recapped

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Controlling Light underwater
Workshop Alex Mustard at Duikschip Panda, Grevelingen

Low visibility diving:

Enable backgrounds in order to complete the picture, murky, try to use half/half shots in order to open background composition. Large scene lighting has its limitations. Chase better conditions, and plan your photography conditions.

Backscatter is caused by strobe light:

  • Get as close to the object as possible
  • Look for good visibility by choosing correct daytime, weather conditions
  • Go one lens wider than you should, 17-35mm vs 60mm
  • Fisheye with teleconverter to get extremely close to objects and captire bright background
  • Use higher iso value and fill light from strobes with only a bit of power
  • In wide angle shots only light the subject with the strobes, key elements
  • Use longer exposure in order to reduce background backscatter
  • Create separation in foreground and background using small DOF
  • Light the object From topside when shooting near surface
  • Move strobes in when object is closer, every 10cm closer to the object reset your strobes 10cm closer
  • If you double the distance from the object you increase a quarter of strobe power
  • Keep the arms close to the port when shooting CFWA shots, unless the object is further away (80cm – 1,5m)
  • Gear related:

  • 5500K vs 4300K strobes, cooler temperature used for better blues
  • Macro Ringflash evicts shadow, and allows close-up 105mm+5T (500D diopter) shots with equally spread light
  • Sensor with remote lightening allows creative wreck photography
  • Using the Magic filter, shoot with the light slightly downwards for better color reflection (between 10AM – 2PM)
  • Reviewing the Light and Motion Sola 600, red light allows closer approach to animals